The façade of Locanda Locatelli is flooded in bright white light, even without the flickering paparazzi bulbs that stalk regulars like Gwyneth Paltrow, Madonna and Elton John. A sedate foyer with off-centered podium contains three buttoned-up hosts who lead guests into the main dining room. There is a sterility to the creamy banquet seating and S-shaped center booths awash in overly designed spotlighting one would expect to find in a first-class lounge at Heathrow. Wood-paneled walls and dramatic circular mirrors offer a modern-spin on the modern Italian dining room, think Cipriani Lite but within the lobby of a recently remodeled Hyatt Regency. We liked our window booth that could have fit six, despite the fact we were only a party of three and asked if "others will be joining" no less than four different occasions.
The Food
Meals begin with a delicious presentation of homemade breads and Tuscan olive oil for dipping. Dinner is predicated by a well-selected wine list a bit on the pricey side given the restaurant's rustic-minded Italian menu. A seasonal menu that changes weekly begins with appetizers begin like asparagus with egg and Parmesan and selection of pureed soups. Pastas can be ordered as a second course or as a main, with a hefty 5-Pound surcharge. Delicate homemade pastas include chestnut tagliatelle with wild mushrooms, stuffed raviolis and gnocchi with summer truffles that on our particular night had the consistency of day-old chewing gum. Main dishes include traditional veal selection, grilled fillet and wild sea bass baked in salt crust.
Last Word
At times the restaurant seems overly-staffed, with a doubting waiter who always kept our Pellegrino constantly full and poured my glass of Barolo within a millimeter of the lip and then asked if he could get me another bottle. While my ‘no’ really meant ‘not right now’, he vanished from sight until presenting the table with the desert list.
